New Beekeepers: Getting Started

So, you have decided to give it a try! What’s Next? – Quite a bit actually. This list will touch on decisions you will be making.

Becoming a beekeeper involves several decisions.

Is your location suitable for honey-bee colonies?
Are you prepared to take on the challenges?
Where to locate your hives.
Number of hives for starting out
The style or type of hive
Decisions about the components of your hive:
How to obtain starter honey-bee colonies.
Equipment for personal protection while working your hive

Important: There is no one-perfect way to be a beekeeper. Beekeeping is as much an art as it is a science. Expect to hear many different opinions from experienced beekeepers, beekeeping journals and books. Differing opinions do not necessarily mean someone is right and others wrong. In general, varying opinions represent different paths toward reaching the same goal: Raising honey-bees, harvesting honey and having fun.

Common Early Questions

Q: Am I allowed to have bees on my property?

A: Most towns and cities in Indiana do allow bees, Indianapolis is one of them. Indianapolis permits up to 8 hives on a property, more if it is more than 5 acres. Fishers and Brownsburg have restriction; look into them. Also, homeowners associations often have restrictions. Do not use private property without express written permission.

Q: Will I get stung?

A: Yes, you will get stung, it is a part of being a beekeeper. Much can be done to minimize the occurrences: wearing protective clothing, using smoke, and above all becoming experienced working around honey-bees.

Q: Are honey-bees dangerous? Will they attack children, pets, etc.?

Honey-bees have a gentle nature. The will not sting unless threatened, such as stepping on one with a bare foot, or grabbing one with you hand. The only persons likely get stung are the beekeepers. In spite of what you may have seen in the movies, they will not attack anyone en masse, children, pets, passersby, etc. very unlikely to be stung. – This being said, each colony has its own temperament. A highly agitated colony may expression at some distance from their hive. – Good colony inspection skills will minimize this problem

Q: Can a reaction honey-bee stings be life threatening?

A: Yes, it is a possibility. Apis mellifera, honey bees are one of over 200 unique bee species in Indiana. Most are rarely encountered by humans. In addition to honey-bees, yellow jackets, hornets, wasps, bumble bees are the mos.t common. Any stinging bee species has the potential for initiating an allergic reaction. Severe reaction to honey-bee stings is rare, the incidence is extremely low. However, one should be familiar with serious symptoms and be prepared. The Mayo Clinic is one of several reliable sources of information.

Q; Can I make money raising bees, selling the honey, etc.?

A; Probably not. There are many expenses involved such as purchasing and maintaining equipment, obtaining bees, keeping honey-bees healthy, equipment for yourself, etc. Beekeeping is, however, a hobby that is fun and may partially pay for itself.

Q: Is beekeeping expensive?

A: There are significant start-up costs involved. (2022 estimates)

Protective equipment for yourself is a one-time expense. $150 to $250.
Hives for the bees. A basic hive will cost about $250 – $300. Ideally you should have at least two. Also, it is wise to have some additional components on hand, particularly super boxes and frames. Hives are durable; properly maintained they can last for years. though expect some repairs. Frames will last 3 to 4 years before needing to be replaced.
Treatments and feeding as needed, $100 – $150 per year. These are ongoing expenses.
Starting or replacement bees for your hives. $120 to $200. (Bees do not always survive winter and may need replacing). However, If you maintain strong healthy colonies, there are ways to create your own new colonies at essentially no cost.

Getting started considerations.

The following is an overview. Its aim is to highlight some of the considerations involved. In no way does this substitute for a good beginning texts and teaming up with an experienced beekeeper. Also, recall that opinions vary, these thoughts are the opinion of one beekeeper. (CAUTION: Working with a mentor is absolutely essential! Books and YouTube videos are helpful, but cannot replace in-person guidance from an experienced beekeeper)

Q: What is the difference between a colony and a hive?

A: The two terms are often used interchangeably, even by experienced beekeepers. However, there IS a difference.

Colonies are the actual bees, consisting of a queen plus all worker bees. They vary in size from a few thousand to 80,000 or more, depending on the season. Each honey-bee colony is a super-organism, a highly organized community of bees, the survival of which requires the ongoing cooperation of all individuasl
Hives are the boxes in which honey-bees are housed by beekeepers. (Feral, wild bees of all species live in “nests”.)
“Swarms” are one phase in the reproduction of a colony. This is a separate topic.

Where to locate bees on your property.

Make location decisions well in advance. Advance planning for site location is important. DO include your significant other in the decision. (Relocating an active hive requires careful thought and much effort).

Hives should be located where they will not have to be moved during the beekeeping season. Honey-bees have a highly developed homing instinct. If the hive is moved only a few feet, field-bees will return to the original location! Many of these foraging bees will die and you will have set back colony foraging capacity, colony strength and chances of survival. (If moving bees is an absolute necessity there are procedures to follow. Ask experienced beekeepers to advise you.).

Considerations for hive location.

Here are some considerations. There is no perfect location. The more of these you can meet, the better.

Early exposure to morning sun. The earlier the sun hits the hive, the earlier bees begin foraging. In general, facing south or south-east is good.
Avoid extreme shade. Some afternoon shade may be helpful
Be near something that can act as a wind break against winter winds: a building, shrubbery, board fence, etc.
DO NOT face the hive directly on to a neighbor’s property, or any public right of way.
Allow about three feet of space all around the hive, including the rear, so that you can move about it feely while working. (Hives are best worked from the rear and sides).
Accessibility by a garden cart or similar transport is very helpful. Honey is heavy, and it is more convenient to bring all your supplies directly to the hives, rather than making repeated trips. Remember a super of honey is very heavy.
Bees should have access to nearby water, within a half-mile is best. Bees need water, particularly in the summer.

What about placing hives at a location other than my home?

This is fine. Perhaps you have another site in mind, perhaps a property in a more rural area, or somewhere that allows honey-bees if your location does not? The same considerations for on-site hive placement apply. An added consideration would be 24/7 access at your convenience. Keep in mind however, the further from your home the less convenient it is to check on them, move supplies to and from the hives, etc.. Off-site locations are less likely to receive timely attention.

Can I begin with a single colony and hive?

Starting with one colony is OK, two are better. By working with two colonies one is better able to compare the development of two colonies. Remember, a colony is an individual living unit; each colony responds and develops differently. Sometimes a strong colony can be used to bolster a weaker colony.

What is the best type of hive for my bees?

The Langstroth style hive is by far the most common. – “Langs” most likely to be seen in pictures. There are many advantages to Langstroth hives:

All parts are standardized and interchangeable. It is easy to move components about within the hive and between hives.
Frames, where bees raise their young and store their honey, are moveable and easy to inspect. Honey comb is also much more secure in a Langstroth frame.
It is easier to find someone familiar with your type of equipment. Almost all beekeepers use Langstroth hives, Langs.

What about Top Bar Hives (TBH)?

TB hives have received a lot of interest in recent years. They are perceived as “more natural” and easier to care for. The former is somewhat true, the latter not so much.

TBH frames, the bars, are more difficult to inspect and manage without breaking off combs that contain brood and honey.
It can be awkward to feed and treat TB hives
Harvesting the honey damages the comb so bees cannot reuse it. Though if harvesting beeswax is one of your goals, this is an advantage.
Bees do not overwinter as well in TB hives.
TB are not standardized, so it may be difficult to interchange bars with other TB hives
They must be populated using “packages” or a captured swarm. (More on packages below.)
Far fewer beekeepers use TB hives. Experienced help may be more difficult to find.

This being said, some beekeepers Love their TBs and would have no other type.

More about Langstroth Hives.

From now on all use of the word “hive” will indicate a Langstroth (aka Lang) style hive.

At this point find a labeled diagram of a beehive. Look in one of your books or find one online, perhaps on a beekeeping suppliers website..

Note: there are many decisions to make relative to hives and their components. Having experienced beekeepers assist you with these decisions is highly recommended

Choices about hive components

Once you have chosen Langstroth-style hives there are a few more decisions to make: (These will be discussed separately below.)

The more significant choices include:

Will you use 8-Frame or 10-Frame Hives?
Which bottom board style: Solid or Screened?
What type of Frames and Foundation?

“10-Frame” vs. “8-Frame” Hive boxes.

Langstroth hives come in either “10-Frame” or “8-Frame” widths, meaning the boxes are wide enough to hold 10 frames, or 8 frames. Is there a significant difference? Some; most significant is 8-Frame hives are lighter and easier to lift. From the bee’s perspective either choice is fine.

Traditionally 10-frame Langs were used by all beekeepers; 10-frame was the only type available. – It was simply what was done? Today commercial beekeepers still use 10-frame hives, and 10-frame hives are still the most commonly used by hobby beekeepers. However, 8-Frame hives are rapidly gaining in popularity, primarily because of their lighter weight.

Are there disadvantages to 8-Frame hives?

None that are major concerns; here are some considerations:

8-Frame boxes and 10-Frame boxes cannot be used with the same hive.
8-frame boxes can be more difficult to find, though today this is rarely the case.
- Fortunately more local dealers are now stocking 8-Frame boxes, bottom boards, etc.
- You can also order online and receive boxes quickly
Also, with less 20% less volume per box, bees fill the box more quickly, so more boxes may be needed. Remember, honey-bees are sensitive to available volume. An 8-frame hive will require at least one extra box to provide adequate space.

Is weight really that important?

Hive weight is significant because less weight makes it easier to manipulate the boxes, easier on the back and you are more likely to inspect your colonies on a regular basis.

Colonies should be inspected on a regular basis. Doing so involves removing boxes one at a time until reaching the bottom box, then reassembling them in reverse. – This is a lot of lifting.

A rough comparison of the weights typical of filled 8-frame and 10-frame boxes. . [Numbers below are rough estimates. Bottom line: 8-Frame Langs have lighter boxes, particularly when filled with honey.

Weights for Deep boxes:

10-Frame deep box full of honey: up to 90 pounds
8-Frame deep box, full of honey: up to 70 pounds

Weights for Medium Supers: :

10-Frame medium super full. Of honey: about 55 pounds
8-Frame medium super full of honey: about 45 pounds.

Remember, frames are interchangeable between all Langstroth hives. All frame dimensions are the same and can be switched between boxes, 8-Frame or 10-Frame.

Painting

Any wooden surfaces exposed to the elements are best painted. Latex based paint is fine. Primer first, then exterior. Color does not matter; white is traditional, but many beekeepers ask for miss-mixed paint.

Paint any surface exposed to elements. DO NOT paint inside walls, frames, etc.

Deeps and Supers: Types of boxes used in hives.

There are two general types of boxes: deeps and supers. Collectively they are used to create the volume bees will use for raising young and storing honey. A traditional beehive, as seen in pictures, consists of 2 deeps and 2 supers, though many variations are possible.

Keep in mind that the number of boxes used correlates with the volume of the hive. The number of boxes used, hive volume, should vary throughout the season: a single deep when first starting your colony, more volume as the season progresses, particularly during the heavy brood rearing and nectar gathering season; volume is reduced in the fall and going into winter.

In summary: Honey-bees do not care as to which box style is used – They care about total available volume. Beekeepers care about weight; shorter boxes weigh less when full of honey.

First the difference between Deeps and Supers. (Look at your illustration.)

Deeps as the name implies, are the tallest/deepest, largest boxes. They may also be called brood boxes or hive bodies. (For the most part the terms are interchangeable)

Brood applies collectively to all eggs, larvae and capped pupae; more about brood later.
Brood raising in usually established in the bottom region of the hive.

Supers, are boxes above, superior to, the brood chamber. Supers are where we hope bees will store their extra honey, the honey we wish to harvest for our own use. There are three types of supers: deep, medium, shallow.

Deep Supers: This is simply another deep added above the lower brood chamber. This is rarely done because a deep full of honey can weigh up to 90 pounds., very heavy for most of us.
Medium Supers (aka Illinois Supers): Medium supers are by far the most commonly used type of super. Mediums weigh around 45 pounds when full.
Shallow Supers: Shallows are shorter still and weigh about 30 pounds when full. Shallows are sometimes difficult to find

It is recommended that you start with medium suppers; They are much more available when needed.

Traditionally a beehive consists of 2 deeps, 2 supers, plus the frames and foundation to fill them.
- Use 1 deep when you first install your starter colony. Add the additional boxes as the colony grows. (Experienced beekeepers can advise you.)
- Supers are added as needed – when the deeps are 80& to 90% full
There are other hive configurations, but this is another discussion. Examples:
- 1 deep then all medium supers above that
- All medium supers.

Top covers and inner covers are very standard. Whatever type you choose is fine.

Bottom Boards have a further consideration: Should the bottom be solid or open/screened? Should the entrance height be 3/8 inch or ¾ inch?

Solid vs. Screened Bottom Boards

Solid bottom boards are traditional. Many beekeepers use them. Some considerations.
- Water can collect on the inside floor of the hive.
  - Problem: This creates higher humidity which both hinders evaporation of nectar to honey and is conducive to mold growth.
  - Solution: Tilt the hive slightly forward thus preventing rainwater from flowing backward into the hive.
- Varroa mite control may be more difficult. (Varroa mite control is another, very important discussion.)
- A solid bottom does restrict airflow; this can be:
  - A plus in the winter
  - A minus in the summer.

Screened Bottom Boards have an open bottom with 1/8 inch mesh screen. Screened bottom boards are becoming more popular. Here are other considerations:
- Mites and detritus can fall through the screen
- Water cannot collect inside the hive
- There is better airflow through the hive. This is a plus in the summer, but may be a minus in the winter.
- Screened bottom boards usually come with inserts that allow for:
  - Using the board for mite counts (Important, but an advanced discussion.)
  - Insert may be used to prevent excessive winter air flow.

Entrance opening height: The bottom board is constructed such that there is a gap between the landing board and bottom edge of the lower hive body. The height of this gap is usually 3/8” or ¾”. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, though none are compelling. Some thoughts:

Most commercially produced bottom boards create a ¾” opening.
- Items such as front feeders are usually designed for this size.
- Some mite treatment methods are easier to apply with a ¾” opening.
- A mouse guard of some type must be used in winter.
3/8” is less common; some thoughts
- height is similar to the “bee space”, the widest gap bees will leave between two surfaces within a hive.
- Height is low enough to discourage mice from entering the hive.
- Front feeders can be more difficult

Frames and Foundation

Frames with their foundation are the moveable functional units of a hive.

Frames make each unit moveable for ease of inspection and harvesting honey.
- Most frames are wooden and are cut to hold specific styles of foundation. (Be sure to check with your dealer to be sure your foundation matches you frames.)
- Wooden frames often come unassembled. If you are new to beekeeping this requires some skill and is time consuming. Do not wait to the last minute to assemble your frames.
Foundation provides surfaces on which bees can “draw out”, build new wax comb for raising brood and storing honey.
- Traditionally wax foundation was the standard, thin sheets of molded beeswax.
  - Given the choice, honey-bees seem to prefer wax foundation.
  - BUT, wax at hive temperatures is very soft and requires additional wire supports.
    - Wax foundation is available with vertical wire supports already embedded in the wax sheet
    - Horizontal wire supports must be individually wired into each frame. – This is labor intensive and time consuming.
    - Installing sheets of wax foundation is also time consuming.
  - Note: Wax foundation MUST be used for the production of comb honey.
- Plastic, beeswax coated, foundation has become much more common.
  - It easily snaps into and out of the frames. (Be sure your frames are built to take plastic foundation).
  - It is rigid so does not require additional wire supports.
  - While bees seem to prefer wax foundation they will accept plastic, particularly if only plastic foundation is used.
- Plastic frames with plastic foundation are also available. It is not commonly available and most experienced beekeepers look down on it. However, one-piece frame and foundation units have real advantages and few disadvantages
  - All pre-molded, so no assembly required
  - It is cheaper.
  - Disadvantages include availability only in deep and medium sizes, and the inability to reuse the frames by inserting new foundation.

Using frames with your boxes. Match the number of frames to the size of the box. Guidelines:

Deeps: 10-frame or 8-frame boxes should contain 10 or 8 frames respectively.
Medium/Illinoi supers:
- The same guideline applies as above 10-frame or 8-frame boxes should contain 10 or 8 frames respectively.
  - In some instances, 9 frames, evenly spaced, will be used in a 10-frame super. (Advanced consideration).
  - Why? To encourage bees to place more honey in each frame.
- Do Not leave open gaps, missing frames, in any hive boxes, particularly in times of high nectar flow.
- Leaving empty gaps will encourage bees to fill the gap by dropping comb from above, making it more awkward to work the hive.

Obtaining Honey-bees for Your Hives

Beekeepers keep honey-bee colonies.

A colony is an individual highly complex living super-organism. A human body consists of billions of cells, each with specialized functions, working together and maintaining a healthy human body. Similarly, a honey-bee colony consists of thousands of individual bees, playing many specialized roles, working together and maintaining a healthy honey-bee “body”, colony..

[Reminder: Colonies are the actual honey-bees, the honey-bee “bodies”. Colonies may feral, liven on their own in the wild,, or colonies may be kept by beekeepers in beehives, domestic colonies.]

Origin of new colonies

New colonies are created by natural division of honey-bee colonies (swarming) or created artificially by beekeepers.

Natural new colony formation, swarming, is part of normal honey-bee colony reproduction. Briefly, an established colony spits itself into two; half stays in the original location; the other half swarms, leaves to establish itself in a new location. (Swarming is an advanced discussion.)
New colonies may be formed artificially by beekeepers. There are several options including: forming splits, starting small nuclear colonies “nucs”, creating packages. (This is a more advanced discussion)

Purchasing Options for Honey-bee starter colonies.

Starter colonies are available for purchase as nucleus colonies (nucs) or as packages.

Purchasing Nucs, small nuclear colonies (Nucs). Nucs are fully functioning small colonies

Each nuc contains a fertilized egg-laying queen, brood at all stages of development, adult workers at all stages of their life cycles, as well as, honey and pollen.
A typical nuc consists of 5 deep frames in an appropriately sized box. Nucs are too small for the colony to remain viable on their own.
These 5 frames must be transferred into a larger hive box as soon as possible, and expanded further as the colony grows.
Most beekeepers prefer nucs, however, they are but they are more expensive, and often less available than packages.
Nucs will cost between $140 to $200 (2020). The difference is based on the quality of the nuc and its availability:
- Locally Overwintered Nuc: A small colony, brought through the winter with its original queen. Therefore worker bees should be all derived from the existing queen. If it is “local”, from the same general region, the colony genetics may be more suited for the regional environment.
- Assembled Nucs. Frames of bees, brood and food stores are combined into a 5-frame nuc-box. A fertilized queen, in a queen cage is inserted. You will have to release the queen after 2 to 4 days. These queens are often derived from southern states.
- Reputation of the dealer is important. Check with your mentor for suggestions.

Purchasing Package Bees

Honey-bee packages are formed by pouring 2 or 3 pounds of bees (6,000 to 10,000) into a container with screened sides. These bees are derived from multiple colonies, all are adults, no brood is included. A caged queen is included, along with a can of sugar water to nourish the bees until they are installed in a hive. Considerations:

The queen us usually from a southern or western state.
Packaged bees must first accept the “foreign” queen. This is usually not a problem, but on rare occasion she is rejected and killed and must be replaced. (Many dealers will proved a replacement queen or package.)
The queen cannot begin laying eggs until drawn comb is available.
The first new worker bees will not be hatch in significant numbers for at least 4 weeks; it may be 1 to 2 weeks before these will become foraging bees.
Package bees are less expensive ($120 to $140), and tend to be more available.

Bringing Home Your Nuc or Package

Bringing bees home. Be sure the bees are out of the sun and well ventilated. Bees may easily overheat and die
Know in advance where the hive will be located in your yard and have 1-hive body set up at that location, ready to use.

Installing Nuc Frames Into Your Single hive body.

Open the nuc box entrance provided for the bees allowing them to fly. Do not open the top of the nuc. Nuc box temperatures may rise during transport
- Allow bees to settle down for about 4 hours, up to 1 day before transferring to the actual hive body
- Transferring nuc frames into your hive box.
  - Simply transfer the nuc-frames, into your hive.
  - Move slowly, (about as fast as a bee can crawl on a frame)
  - Place frames in center of the hive. –
    - Keep frames in the same order as in the nuc box
    - If the nuc is very strong, seek advise from an experienced beekeeper.
    - Be sure the remaining 3 to 5 spaces are filled with other frames.

Installing Package Bees Into Your Single Hive Body

There are several methods for introducing your package into your hive body. The two most common are:

Literally pouring/shaking the package into the hive
Placing the open package in the hive body, first removing enough frames to make room for the package box.
In both instances the queen remains in her cage and the cage placed between frames such that she can be fed through the screen of her cage. She will be released after 2 to 4 days, time to improve chances of being accepted.
There is No One Perfect method. Consult an experienced beekeeper.

Feeding: Your New Bees MUST be Fed – For as Long as Necessary.

Immediately begin feeding your bees using a front-feeder (Boardman-feeder). – [Avoid front feeding later in the season].

You may also choose to add Honey-B Healthy or similar essential oil mix, as a stimulant.
Bees should take 1 quart of sugar solution in 1 to 2 days
Keep feeding until 1 quart lasts for 4 to 5 days.

Other Options For Obtaining Starter Colonies

Other possibilities for obtaining bees for a new colony include, capturing or trapping a swarm, and making a split from a strong existing colony. These are more advanced options and best saved for once you have gained some experience as a beekeeper.

Beekeeping Equipment for Yourself and for Working the Hive

Items for you the beekeeper: Bee suit or Jacket and Gloves.
- Bee suit or bee jacket?
  - Traditional cotton vs. Mesh
    - Traditional cotton is thicker, but hot in summer. It generally costs less.
    - Mesh is lighter weight and ventilated. They are said to be cooler to wear. They are a relatively new product and those who have the love them. They are a bit more expensive
  - Full Suit or Jacket
    - Full suits protect your entire body, but are more awkward put on and take off. They do cost more.
    - Jackets are easier to put on and take off, but do not protect your pants and ankles. They do cost less
  - If possible try them on. Better buy a bit large than too small.
- Gloves: The best gloves are made with goat skin or leather; full length or shorter; ventilated or non-ventilated
  - Keep in mind that suits and jackets have full length sleeves, so shorter gloves should do, similarly ventilation is not so effective because the suit and jacket sleeve lengths are long.
  - Again, try them on; buy a bit larger than too small.
  - Applying neat’s-foot oil on leather gloves before you use them will keep them softer, and last longer
- Note on propolis. Propolis, the heavy resins found in beehives, WILL get on your suit, jacket, gloves. Forget trying to take it out; once it is there, it is there. Propolis stained clothing signals that you are a “real beekeeper.” – Similarly, be sure to wear older clothing when working your bees.
Items for working your bees: The two most important are a Smoker and a Hive tool.
- Smoker: Get one you like. One with a heat shield is good
- Hive tool: These are a MUST!
  - Get at least two for when you misplace one.! No tool, no working the hive. (You will be surprised how well bees can glue things down with propolis.)
  - The traditional pry-bar scraper is fine. One with a J-hook and a scraper is even better.
  - A front feeder: Boardman Feeder and lid. Your bees will need feeding for a few weeks when they first arrive.
    - You may need to feed some in the fall. This may require a different style feeder. (Experienced beekeepers can advise.)
  - Do you need an extractor? Probably not at first. Your bee club usually has provisions for sharing extraction equipment.
  - Expect to purchase some additional items as you go along.

By no means is this guide totally inclusive, nor is it the only credible advise [DH3] .

You WILL hear other opinions; Most are worth considering, perhaps even better.

Remember, there ae many ways to approach beekeeping [DH4] .

Enjoy your beekeeping adventure [DH5] .

Stay in touch with your local beekeepers!

[DH1]Gloves are available in full length or short and either ventilated or not ventilated.

[DH2]Applying neat’s foot oil to the glove’s hand prior to using them will make them more pliable and they could possibly last longer.

[DH3]advice

[DH4]Add – you will need to find what works for you.

[DH5]

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